[Det finnes også en norsk versjon]

Tuesday June 12

Woke in darkness. No window in the cabin—no clock in the mobile phone, it can't be turned on with no SIM card in it. Ári is awake, and allows me to leave for the toilet. Lighting his red Longyearbyen flashlight for comfort. Someone joined us in the forth bunk from Lerwick, we didn't see much of him.

Finding it's 9 AM, ship's time, Ári and myself get up.

Ári still not hungry, had only a couple of yogurts yesterday. He's hanging at the arcade games—beginning to miss him already. My own appetite not too much to brag about, either. Should travel more often—for once I chew my food.

Next weather report is 12:25, which will be in the middle of landing chaos.

I was sure I had this under control: the Nordic passport union is still in force, even with Norway (and the Faeroe Islands) in Schengen. According to Nordic rules, I can arrive in Bergen without passport, even if the ship has been in Shetland on its way from Tórshavn. I just have to present a ticket, showing I embarked from Tórshavn.

The police officer doing immigration control in Bergen, seems more interested in following Schengen rules. (I can understand him; the old rules are impossible to enforce.) Since I do have a passport, I brought it, just in case. Packed in a plastic bag, taped to be watertight. But Ári has no passport, that's too expensive if you don't need one. And the Royal Norwegian Consulate in Tórshavn told me that kids can't be registered in parent's passport anymore. Which did not keep the officer from asking me why I hadn't done exactly that. In places like Tanger, this kind of chaos is probably made on purpose, to get baksheesh, in Norway I'm afraid it's pure natural talent. Well, I finally got him though—without bribes. The problem seemed to be that I might have kidnapped him. But I could just as well do that with him travelling on his own passport, or with him registered in mine?

Followed my mother and Ári to the railway station with their luggage. They follow us back to the ladder where we plan to embark. But we decide to embark further out, I have to run back for good-byes. I turn around, looking at their backs. Ári looks rather heavy; hope he is more tired than sad.

Dumping the kayaks six feet onto a large fender, and further three feet into the sea. Point of no return, they are too heavy to heave the same way up.

While we're at the railway station, Thomas Helsig, on his way to the Faeroe Island with his kayak, has seen our boats, he wonders if he gets company. He doesn't—we don't meet him.

A couple of days too late to see KNM Skjold leaving Haakonsvern, leased by the US Navy. That we do not know at the time.

Wednesday June 13

Good old Sol beginning to heat the camp at Tyssøy. 60º17.5'N 5º9.5'E. The gulls have raided the garbage bag—I should have known.

Had been heavy seas out of Bergen harbor. "And this is only the beginning, this will be a terrible week." Wondered: If I just give up right now, will I reach the night train to Kongsberg (and Ári)? A wave tore my cockpit cover partly off, should have realized I should tighten it. (Finally did the last day, when it got all off while training rolls in Sandviken.) Got into calm waters on the lee side of Kvarven—preparing to get the weather real bad against us when rounding the cape. Strangely, there was warm sunny calm on the other side.

Norwegian radio P1 was supposed to have a weather report yesterday at 10 PM? Error at dnmi.no, or have I messed up my notes? Do I need an RDS-radio? SMS-weather for Fjell (We are in Fjell?) said rain Wednesday and showers Thursday. Radio says just nice weather all over the west coast, radio turned out to be right. One test may not enough to conclude that it's useless. But at about one € apiece, enough for me to stop testing. Had whale (Balaenoptera acutorostrata) for dinner—delicious!

Doubting very much if we'd keep dry in rainy weather. Messing too much around, not remembering where things are. Though the system is really simple: What you need, is at the bottom, so everything else must out first. And I get wet when paddling, even in the calmest weather. Do need a better anoraq.

Riding south with a healthy current. Hope it turns with the tide, so we can get north again .A rather wild tidal race at the Steinsundholmene west of Bjorøy.

Went inwards, into Fana, Hjellestad Marina. Wanting a cabin—rain, kayak and tent can be a wet combination. Concluding that there is absolutely no camping by the sea within Bergen's wide city limits. Going out towards Sotra again.

Hardly seeing people anywhere. So we knock on a door, asking direction for some cabins that should be there somewhere. Old lady answering, giving us road directions. Even if we stand there, all dressed up in neoprene and PVC. Obviously, she has long ago given up on modern fashion. But when we ask, we get directions by sea, too. Some years have passed since last time she was behind oars, she sends us through Håkonsund, not to it. First place we find, looking remotely like a cabin, is Marstein Hotel. Nice place, a bit expensive, and all rooms booked, anyway. But they tell us where the cabins are, even calling and making reservations for us. Håkonsund Cabins, phone +47 56338086. Planning to stay at least two nights.

Thursday June 14

Håkonsund—Steinsland—Glesvær—north of Golten—in from the North Sea south of Nordøy—passing the south side of Toftarøy—Håkonsund. Bakery in Glesvær closed for repair, they gave us some of yesterday's bagels, and we bought ice cream and yogurt. Nice, big, airy room. Obviously, no bean counters have been here to optimize shelf space. Three clocks on the wall, interesting time zones. Definitely not New York—London—Tokyo,.

Climbing far inland north of Goltesund. Felt real good for back, hips and legs. Enough waves out in the North Sea, had the phone rung, I'd just let it. In the sound by Nordøy, we did almost 2 knots, not touching the paddles. Good time to make a call, but Anna Sofía is still at work. A bit later, she called, that fit in nicely, me talking while the others were fishing.

Friday June 15

Placing calls to organize the last stretch. No cabins or anything on Askøy. Except apartments on Herdla. Probably nice place, but too far from Bergen harbor for the last night. Can't risk being marooned in Norway. YMCA in Bergen closed for repair, the expedition seems haunted by redecorations. Why do people redecorate in the middle of the tourist season? Bildøy Bible School is open, but all booked.

Crossed Korsfjorden to Hundvaako for barbecue. Resting day, 12 km only. Saw sea anemones in the wild for the first time. Small, dark velvet red, living in a channel between the sea and a tidepool. By the way, this trip is the first time I've seen herons, except for the lakes in downtown Copenhagen. Try to reach Florvåg or something tomorrow; there is a recreational area on the map.

The Eimskip kayak has lost another screw. Locked with a nylon gasket, shouldn't fall off? The spare paddle is now what keeps the rear hatch closed. The Finnish Kajaksport hatches on the Hasle are the only real tight ones, anyway.

Saturday June 16

To Askøy, a nice detour outside Litla Sotra. Met a green Dutch yacht on its way to Spitzbergen in Klokkervik. Don't remember its name, nor did I ask if they were visiting a Dutch silversmith in Longyearbyen. A lot of weather against us in Hjeltefjorden. Some water in the rear compartment, Thermarest sucks in more water that I thought. (Sleeping bag dry, fortunately.) Having had head winds most of the trip, really. We're no good at staying together, everyone has his own opinion about suitable speed—you'd have to hold your breath about 10 minutes, waiting for a comrade rescue.

Landing at Vindfelden ("the Wind Trap"?) on Askøy, looking for a campsite. Finding a usable one, except for some boulders, threatening to fall on it. Following a path inland, too far inland, we wouldn't want to carry the camp that far, anyway. Hearing voices from above: climbers training. Finding a usable site, by the sea on the other side. We can kayak around Hjelteneset and into Skiftesvik, rather than carrying. Longest stretch of the trip: 42 km.

Not a perfect camp, incredibly much trash. Tomas and Johan tent on stony ground, I prefer it swampy. General agreement that this is a one night stand, even if it is close enough to Bergen.

Finding a mouse, dying on the path. No tail, and wounded in the head. Passing half an hour later, the mouse still alive, I finally get myself together for euthanasia. Has he been climbing, too? Steep enough for anyone to die.

Saw Bølgen's sister—a Viksund 24 with bright blue hull. Behind her, a Viksund Columbi, old enough that she too has rubber around the windows, rather than aluminum.

Sunday June 17

Sun at seven, but not on the tents. Hunting for a better camp. Florvåg has become a post-industrial ruin. The only thing I think I recognize, is the oldest building at Florvåg Bruk. Should have been a house with a café on the first floor here, somewhere. I remember two square juice coolers, on with red and one with yellow juice. Not a trace.

Someone has set a tourist trap, though. Red huts, pictures of tall ships and fish, a nice place to buy ice cream, or a pint of beer. Then they changed their mind, the sign reads: "Industrial Area. No Admittance".

Usable campsite between the Naval War Academy and NUTEC, used by a German in kayak, on his way to Nordkapp. But we want a house, ending up at Sandviken Guest House. First dinner at Yang-tse Kiang, I had shark fin soup, and duck with pineapple, Hardanger non-alcoholic beer.

Monday June 18

Training rolls in Sandviken. Nice, warm water. Fancy and expensive apartments at Sandviken Brygge. Probably, like Aker Brygge, inspired by the London Docklands. But while Aker Brygge is opening Oslo to the sea, Sandviken Brygge acts as a barrier.

Eating Chinese again. No more paddling, so drinking Tsing Tao.

Tuesday June 19

Going home on the Norröna. The car deck has to be stuffed by hand, embarking takes real long. Rather dead aboard, socially. Los Gallianos trying hard to beat a record that does not exist. Apathy and a slight seasickness sending us to bed before 10. Getting up at Shetland, drinking Farris and Cola in the bar. Bunking again.

Wednesday June 20

Home again. Nice weather at sea. Foggy in Tórshavn.